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Basic training: What your horse should know Subtitle: How to get the most for your money at the trainer's
Story and photos by Doreen Shumpert with Terri Kinney
Before a military man or woman is shipped off to begin the noble task of defending our country, they learn certain skills and conditioning in basic training to better prepare them for service. Without that preparation, they could easily put themselves and others in unnecessary danger or at the least have an incredibly stressful experience, probably resulting in regrets about doing it at all. A parallel can be drawn for many barrel racing horses. Often, they can get thrown into being started under saddle or even competition with no basic training to make them both mentally and physically ready for the challenge. Barrel racing clinician and trainer Terri Kinney from Loveland, Colo., has discovered a process that can save up to three weeks training (or more) on her end with a client's horse. If the owner can spend even 10 minutes a day doing these ground exercises prior to hauling a horse to the trainer, considerable time and money can be saved--with far more progress--in the 30 or 60 days he is there. "There are three main things an owner can do to prepare the horse, whether it's an older broke horse, any horse that needs more respect, a two-year-old or a weanling. You want to get the five body parts soft and gain respect, control the feet, and desensitize the horse. The younger the horse, the easier it is, but these exercises will help any horse," Kinney explained. "I recommend these to my clients that don't have time to ride during the week for example. It will make all horses, including barrel horses, better and faster if they can do these things. You can often see them get softer in a week's time," she added. "If a horse doesn't know these basics, it can take me weeks to teach them, resulting in a longer stay. But if a horse understands pressure and release, and you apply it in everything, you'll be amazed how much happier and respectful the horse is, and how much easier to train."
1. Soften the body parts The horse has five main body parts: the head/neck, the poll, the shoulders, the ribcage and the hindquarters. According to Kinney, if you get all of those soft, it is amazing how much you can do with your horse. Even a minimal effort can greatly expedite the training process and keep your horse soft and respectful when you do climb aboard. She prefers a knot halter over Nylon, because the knots work on the pressure points, resulting in a quicker response with less pressure (see sidebar). Head, neck and poll
This is the easiest place to start softening the
horse. To begin, Kinney stands beside the horse and pulls upward with
the lead rope to the area of where her hip would be in the saddle. She
waits for the mare to give her head, poll (area between her ears) and
neck to the side--ultimately all the way to her belly (photo 1). Photo 1
When she does, Kinney releases (photo 2).
Photo 2 "People get confused between softening and flexing, so I try to change my terminology because I want softness, not just flexibility," Kinney said. "I always want a horse to work off of pressure and release. I apply pressure, and the second the horse gives or tries to respond correctly, I release it by giving back." Initially, Kinney said a horse will try to move its feet and circle or pull on you until it figures out what you want. In that case, she just moves with the horse but doesn't release the pressure until she gets the correct response. It's not all or nothing; at first the horse may only flex a tiny bit and that should be rewarded and built upon (photo 3).
Photo 3 Naturally, as with all horse training, what you do to one side, do to the other. Kinney recommends doing the exercise five to 10 times on each side. But as usual, read the horse. A big key of horse training is knowing when to quit while you're ahead. Don't push too far. "This exercise can be your first indication of which side the horse is naturally stiffer on," she pointed out. "You want to get to the point you don't have to pull, just lift on the rope and the horse gives softly. That's the end result." This basic drill also lays the groundwork for a one-rein stop (see sidebar), which can be an invaluable tool in starting colts or working with problem horses--more specialties of Kinney's. "If you can get a horse to soften--not just flex--their head and neck, you're taking their power away," she said. "That's why I like doing this exercise first. If you get the face and neck soft, they'll also start to soften at the poll. If they'll soften laterally, they'll soften vertically." Vertical flexion, resulting in that perfect show-ring head tuck, has been akin to rocket science for years. Draw reins and tie-downs are typical weapons of choice to help achieve it, and depending on the event, can be used effectively and correctly by very competent horsemen. They can just as easily be misused and dangerous. In her training program, Kinney hasn't even found them necessary. "I think most horses end up stiffer and pushier in draw reins than they ever do by teaching them softness," Kinney explained. "I haven't had to use them since I started training this way. And the only time I'll use a tie down at all is on a horse that's going a lot faster and needs a little balance. I don't use one for flexion or to get the head down." For a horse that is particularly bad about slinging its head during haltering or bridling, or if its just super stiff, Kinney will also practice an exercise where she uses her left hand to steady the head (not to apply pressure) while she pushes on the pressure points of the poll until the horse relaxes its head down little by little until it'll nearly touch the ground (photo 4).
Photo 4 Shoulders and ribs
Getting control of this region on the ground is
perhaps the best precursor to teaching a horse to move away from
pressure in the saddle. To teach a horse to move away, Kinney puts one
hand toward the face to block the horse from turning toward her, and
applies pressure in the cinch area with the other hand. She bumps or
pokes the horse versus pushing, which a horse can brace against
(photo 5). Photo 5 If
the horse tries to walk forward, she bumps it back and starts over. Any
initial sideways move deserves a pressure release, but ultimately, the
horse should yield its front quarters (disengage) by crossing the near
front leg over the outside front leg (photo 6).
Again, the goal is to do this with the least amount of pressure possible on both sides, going both directions. "Eventually, they'll get soft enough that when I just walk up with my hands in that position, the horse moves away," she said. Hips and hindquarters Along with the hips and hindquarters, this exercise also helps supple the ribs, loosen the hips, and teaches a horse to disengage the hindquarters--another element of a one-rein stop. To fully disengage, a horse should cross the near hind leg in front of the off hind leg, basically the same thing it does to disengage the front quarters. This also takes its power away, and crossing the hind legs puts it in a very vulnerable spot.
First, Kinney flexes the horse's face slightly
to the inside, but keeps her hand up to block the front end from pushing
toward her--a common mistake the horse will make. Next, she looks at the
hip, and points at it (photo 7). Photo 7 If
the horse doesn't move, she walks toward the hip, twirling the rope
(photo 8).
Photo 8 If the horse still doesn't move, she will tap the hip with the rope. "You
want to always gradually add pressure, only using what's required to get
the response. Eventually, my horses get to where I look or point at that
hip, they move," she said (photo 9).
Photo 9 "For the end result, I want them to cross over in back and turn and face me with two eyes," she continued. "If you take this slow, you'll get better results each day." Basic training: What your horse should know Subtitle: How to get the most for your money at the trainer's
Story and photos by Doreen Shumpert with Terri Kinney
3. Desensitize
The third thing you can do to save time and money at the trainer is to work on desensitizing your horse, Kinney said. If it isn't jumping out of its skin all the time, it can relax and learn faster. "Horses are the most afraid of things that move and make noise," Kinney said. "You almost want to try to scare it until it stops moving its feet and looks to you for help. I will wave a stick, rope, tarp, bag--be creative--and let the horse move until it stops. I want it to realize it's okay," she said. Start by desensitizing the air around your horse. In other words, fill a spray bottle with water and spray the air, not the horse, until it relaxes. Swing your leadrope or stick all around the horse. Turn the clippers on and let them run while the horse eats or while you brush without ever trying to clip it. Also, realize that a horse is braver when they think they are chasing something, so spend time waving a scary object in front of you as you lead the horse .
"They get over the fear really fast this way and get curious," Kinney said. "Pretty soon they're in your back pocket trying to see what it is. Plastic bags seem to be a big one and this is effective for getting horses over that fear, for example." Once the horse accepts things in the air around it, go ahead and rub it with them all over, throw the leadrope over its back, under its belly--again, be creative. Teach it that things aren't going to hurt it. Also, having an old experienced horse nearby can be helpful, as horses learn reactions from each other. "A horse will always spook at something, but you want it to react properly by stopping its feet and looking for help rather than bolting, bucking or rearing," Kinney added. Kinney combines desensitizing exercises with sensitizing--such as the backing and flexing. "I'll do a sensitizing exercise, let the colt think and soak it up--which it needs to do--and then I'll do a desensitizing exercise and let it soak. You just have to recognize when the horse is done learning for the day, which may be only 15 or 20 minutes for a young horse," she said. "The key to all of these exercises is to understand that if you can't control the body parts on the ground, it won't happen on their back," Kinney warned. "That's when they are naturally in control. But we can fool them into thinking we are bigger and stronger on the ground and that will transfer to the saddle."
Equipment
Kinney prefers to use equipment endorsed and used by noted clinician Clinton Anderson, who has also produced a barrel racing series with former world champion Sherry Cervi that Kinney highly recommends. The training aids shown in the article, including the knotted halter ( Downunder Halter and Lead) and Handi-Stick are available at www.downunderhorsemanship.com or by calling 1-888-AUSIE2.
What's a one-rein stop?
Natural horsemanship clinician Marty Marten perhaps explained it best in a previous article with this author. Basically, it's a good way to get stopped in an emergency when things get out of control. If your horse gets out of control in a snaffle bit, use a one-rein stop. This is never appropriate for any shanked bit. To complete a one-rein stop to the right, shorten your right rein so your horse is bent about 90 degrees. Your left rein should be slack. Use your right leg to untrack your horse’s hindquarters (push them around) to the left until it reaches deep underneath itself and crosses its inside hind leg over the outside. Your horse should take baby steps in front and giant steps behind. When it does, remove leg pressure so your horse knows to stop. You will feel when its mind is ready to stop. And when your horse stops with its head bent, release. Basic training: What your horse should know Subtitle: How to get the most for your money at the trainer's
Story and photos by Doreen Shumpert with Terri Kinney This is the third part of a three part series... If you missed the first part, click on the archive icon to read it.
3. Desensitize
The third thing you can do to save time and money at the trainer is to work on desensitizing your horse, Kinney said. If it isn't jumping out of its skin all the time, it can relax and learn faster. "Horses are the most afraid of things that move and make noise," Kinney said. "You almost want to try to scare it until it stops moving its feet and looks to you for help. I will wave a stick, rope, tarp, bag--be creative--and let the horse move until it stops. I want it to realize it's okay," she said. Start by desensitizing the air around your horse. In other words, fill a spray bottle with water and spray the air, not the horse, until it relaxes. Swing your leadrope or stick all around the horse. Turn the clippers on and let them run while the horse eats or while you brush without ever trying to clip it. Also, realize that a horse is braver when they think they are chasing something, so spend time waving a scary object in front of you as you lead the horse .
"They get over the fear really fast this way and get curious," Kinney said. "Pretty soon they're in your back pocket trying to see what it is. Plastic bags seem to be a big one and this is effective for getting horses over that fear, for example." Once the horse accepts things in the air around it, go ahead and rub it with them all over, throw the leadrope over its back, under its belly--again, be creative. Teach it that things aren't going to hurt it. Also, having an old experienced horse nearby can be helpful, as horses learn reactions from each other. "A horse will always spook at something, but you want it to react properly by stopping its feet and looking for help rather than bolting, bucking or rearing," Kinney added. Kinney combines desensitizing exercises with sensitizing--such as the backing and flexing. "I'll do a sensitizing exercise, let the colt think and soak it up--which it needs to do--and then I'll do a desensitizing exercise and let it soak. You just have to recognize when the horse is done learning for the day, which may be only 15 or 20 minutes for a young horse," she said. "The key to all of these exercises is to understand that if you can't control the body parts on the ground, it won't happen on their back," Kinney warned. "That's when they are naturally in control. But we can fool them into thinking we are bigger and stronger on the ground and that will transfer to the saddle."
Equipment
Kinney prefers to use equipment endorsed and used by noted clinician Clinton Anderson, who has also produced a barrel racing series with former world champion Sherry Cervi that Kinney highly recommends. The training aids shown in the article, including the knotted halter ( Downunder Halter and Lead) and Handi-Stick are available at www.downunderhorsemanship.com or by calling 1-888-AUSIE2.
What's a one-rein stop?
Natural horsemanship clinician Marty Marten perhaps explained it best in a previous article with this author. Basically, it's a good way to get stopped in an emergency when things get out of control. If your horse gets out of control in a snaffle bit, use a one-rein stop. This is never appropriate for any shanked bit. To complete a one-rein stop to the right, shorten your right rein so your horse is bent about 90 degrees. Your left rein should be slack. Use your right leg to untrack your horse’s hindquarters (push them around) to the left until it reaches deep underneath itself and crosses its inside hind leg over the outside. Your horse should take baby steps in front and giant steps behind. When it does, remove leg pressure so your horse knows to stop. You will feel when its mind is ready to stop. And when your horse stops with its head bent, release.
If you have any questions regarding any part of this series, please contact us at StarAmazingGrace@aol.com
Doreen Shumpert is an award-winning equine freelance writer and for more information about her and her talents you can go to http://www.x2dhorses.com/equinemedia.php. You can also contact her at doreen@x2dhorses.com .
Lunging for Respect Part 1 By Doreen Shumpert with Terri Kinney
Previously, Terri shared how to start gaining your horse's respect on the ground before you ever climb aboard. Remember—typically, what happens on the ground transfers to the saddle. Consequently, Kinney begins by softening the body parts (see Basic Training, installments 1 and 2 on (Archived - Tip of the Month). Once the horse has a good handle on that, she moves into lunging for respect. In the old days, that often meant grabbing your buggy whip and running your horse silly in the round pen, unfortunately. But since then, the round pen has become a training tool that can be just as valuable or essential as a bit or set of spurs. “Basically what you are doing is telling the horse that you can control their feet,” Kinney said. “You get their feet moving, you get them thinking. When you get them thinking, that's when you can get respect,” she explained. “Horses react with either the thinking side of their brain or their reacting side. If they are using their reacting side, that's when they are running all over acting like an idiot, not paying attention, and not doing what you ask,” she continued. “When you can get them thinking, that's when you can get them to do what you want, and you'll have a calmer horse because they are thinking about what it is they are doing, versus just reacting.” And, a great way to do that is to utilize the round pen, as Kinney demonstrates.
1. One of the toughest things for people to understand is that a horse thinks well when their feet are moving. Instead, people think they are just reacting, because they have to move to react, right? The thing about it is you control the feet, and you dictate where they are going. That makes it different than them just reacting on their own. You get them thinking about what you want them to do. Then, you start gaining respect because they think, “This person knows how to move my feet, they have control of me!” I start with young horses, two or three years old, that aren't broke. The first thing you have to do is teach them to move their feet on command. Once again, it is pressure/release where I ask with the least amount of pressure I can. You can actually put mental pressure on them just by thinking about what you want them to do.
The
next thing I do is point the direction I want them to go. If
I get no reaction, then I cluck. If there is still no reaction, I might
slap the ground
The minute they start moving, I'm going to release that pressure and let them be responsible for moving their own feet. 4.
A lot of times when you star this, they will pull on you, jerk on
you, run off and all kinds of stuff. But I want them thinking about what
I want them to do, and what I'm doing, and what I'm telling them. I want
that face and that eye on me. Every time this mare slows down or stops I
put a little bit of pressure back on. With this horse, I just cluck and
that's usually enough without having to slap the ground. If I did, and
she still didn't move, then I'd have to spank her.
5.
A-B. Now, to get theses horses to start thinking about my body
language and what I'm doing with my body, I don't usually tell them
'whoa' or stop them by saying 'whoa.' Instead, I disengage their hind
quarters. In other words, get them to step to the outside of the circle
with them to stop their motion, instead of driving forward. If I can do
that, I know I have good control of the feet. So, I slide my hand down
the rope, step up toward the horse's hip
6.
A-B. To switch directions, I go through the same motions. I'm not
going to move around her; I want her to move around me. First I point.
If there's no reaction, then I cluck and should get a little movement.
If I want her to go faster, I'll hit the ground and then leave her alone
If she wants to crowd me, I step into that ribcage and push it out.
7.
This is also how I start teaching a horse to be light in the
face. I want slack in the rope when I lunge; if they pull on me, I'll
bump their face into me with the rope until they learn to give to that
pressure. I want the horse to look to the inside of the circle.
Doreen Shumpert is an award-winning equine freelance writer and for more information about her and her talents you can go to http://www.x2dhorses.com/equinemedia.php. You can also contact her at doreen@x2dhorses.com .
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and
ask him to step out. I want the horse to wind up facing me, as this mare
is getting ready to do. She has stopped her motion, is getting ready to
disengage by crossing that right hind over her left, and she'll end up
facing me.
Most horses that first come to me want to look to the outside of the
circle and pull because they don't want anything to do with me and are
looking for a way out. To get them to stop, I don't want to have to pull
on the face when I step toward the hip as described above. But at first,
I may have to.